Showing posts with label vodou. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vodou. Show all posts

Monday, September 14, 2015

RIP Max Beauvoir


Max Beauvoir, a great poto mitan in the temple of vodou, has passed. I enjoyed visiting his peristyle in Mariani in Port-au-Prince in the early 2000s, and he was an inexhaustible resource for knowledge about Haiti's religion. L'ap danse ak lwa yo, kounye-a.

Monday, March 31, 2014

Exploring the world of Haitian vodou

The Miami Herald

Posted on Sun, Mar. 02, 2014

Exploring the world of Haitian vodou   

By Michael Deibert

(Read the original article here)

Mimerose Beaubrun's book Nan Dòmi: An Initiate's Journey into Haitian Vodou — the first part of the title refers to a spiritual state — is a welcome addition to the canon of vodou scholarship, a deeply felt inside account of a faith of often daunting complexity.

Beaubrun is one of the leaders of the Haitian vodou-rock band Boukman Eksperyans — named for one of the heroes of Haiti's revolution — which features music that combines propulsive vodou drumming with Jimi Hendrix-like guitar runs. Beaubrun came to the religion as a trained anthropologist, but as the narrative makes clear, she soon found a deeper and more fundamental connection to it.

Often given short shrift by journalists and others seeking to understand Haiti's turbulent political history, the vodou faith has been pivotal at many critical times in Haiti’s development, including during its long struggle for independence from France. Its relevance continues into the present day, when watchful eyes can discern subtle vodou imagery among Haiti's politicians. Vodou remains at the center of the daily experience for many in the country, its complex web of deities and rituals throbbing through life like the plangent sound of a rada drum beating in the tropical night.

Over the years, outstanding books have been written about Haiti's distinctive blend of African religious faith and European-derived ceremonial flourish.  In 1953, the Russian-American avant-garde filmmaker Maya Deren published Divine Horsemen: The Living Gods of Haiti, a companion piece to her film of the same title, which chronicled four years of research into the faith. Five years later, the Swiss anthropologist Alfred Metraux published Voodoo in Haiti, in large part the result of his travels around the country with the great Haitian author Jacques Roumain. They documented vodou traditions for Haiti's Bureau d’Ethnologie, which Roumain had established to legitimize the study of Haiti's peasant traditions.

To this tradition Beaubrun makes her contribution. Among her first-person accounts of possession and other interior aspects of the faith, readers are treated to a tapestry of invocations, consumption of esoteric, perhaps hallucinogenic, concoctions, lots of drumming, dancing and chanting. Some of the direct descriptions of vodou goings-on may seem esoteric to the point of magic realism to the lay reader, and the book could have used a heavier, more explanatory editorial hand. Many readers may be left wondering what a “caco” (basically an armed peasant rebel) is, for example, but the intimacy with which Beaubrun relates her strange tale gives a unique immediacy to the book.

Beaubrun does not present her story in an overtly political context. But a shadow of Haiti's fratricidal political battles is apparent when one of Beaubrun's vodou mentors tells her that “each living being is a warrior and he is alone in combat. Depending on his magical force . . . to undertake battle, he will be the victor or the loser.”

At one point in the narrative, one member of Haiti’s vodou pantheon — said to have been a Carib chieftain on the pre-colonial island — is said to have prophesied that Haiti was “going to experience two hundred years of tribulations” but “she will not perish.” In the faith documented in Nan Dòmi, the reader begins to get a flavor for how such a seemingly benighted place could have endured for so long. 

Michael Deibert is the author of The Democratic Republic of Congo: Between Hope and Despair.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Thoughts on recent Haiti commentaries

As a progressive reporter and analyst working on the ground in Haiti, I have gotten fairly used to reading ignorant commentary on the Caribbean nation of 9 million over the years.

Last month, the dust had not even settled from the earthquake that destroyed large sections of Port-au-Prince and killed some 2000,000 people when the voices of intolerance and opportunism set about savaging a country that was already on its knees.

The irony of Rush Limbaugh - a man so obese that he can barely stand maligning a nation of the chronically underfed - telling listeners not to support the hundreds of thousands made homeless by the quake met the venomous snake-oil rhetoric of Pat Robertson, who denounced those buried under the rumble for having made “a pact with the Devil.” Further libeling the dead, the American basketball player Paul Shirley wrote that “shouldn’t much of the responsibility for the disaster lie with the victims of that disaster,” a remark that got him wisely fired by ESPN.

Unfortunately, though, the right are not the only ones whose views of Haiti seems to have been colored by political prejudice and misunderstanding. In recent years, a small but noisy sector of the international left has been equally irresponsible in its commentary about Haiti, with some commentators wishing to see all foreign countries in terms of facile good guy-bad guy scenarios

Center for Economic and Policy Research co-director Mark Weisbrot - a man so intellectually lazy he often gets the basic details of Haiti’s history wrong - characterizes despotic former Haitian ruler Jean-Bertrand Aristide as “Haiti's democratically elected president...kidnapped by the US and flown to exile in Africa,” Naomi Klein, interviewing Aristide in his gilded South Africa exile (where the South African government underwrites his expenses to the tune of that of a government minister), wrote that Aristide is proof of her own anti-globalization credo, as she credulously repeats Aristide’s contention that he was ousted because of his resistance to the “privatization” of Haiti’s state industries. Writing in the Guardian after having spent only two months in Haiti and having written of his support of Mr. Aristide before having ever set foot in the country, the academic Peter Hallward concludes that “Aristide's own government...was overthrown by an internationally sponsored coup in 2004 that killed several thousand people and left much of the population smouldering in resentment.”

These assertions would likely be news to the people I spoke to in Haiti’s capital, Port-au-Prince, when the city was still reeling from the impact of the quake, the fires still smoldering and the bodies still perfuming the air with the sickly-sweet decay of human flesh. To the people I did speak to in places like the capital’s crowded Delmas road, along, the busy Route Freres and even in Aristide’s former home of Tabarre, the reaction to the former president’s January offer to be flown to Haiti veered between disparaging comments that Aristide was a criminal to bitter observations that Aristide should buy a ticket and come dig with his hands through the rubble like everyone else, rather than waiting to be ferried home like a returning emperor. During a visit to Haiti’s countryside last summer, I found the response to the mention of Aristide’s name even more hostile. The president’s Fanmi Lavalas party, badly divided and unwisely banned from upcoming legislative elections, can still rouse a few thousand people for street rallies in the capital, but the movement seems largely a spent force and Haitians seem largely to have moved on.

In Haiti, a small, poor country where few people can speak or write English proficiently, the left, like the right, seems to feel that they have found the perfect canvas on which to outline their own theories and agendas, no matter how irrelevant they may be to the struggles of Haitians as whole. This cock-eyed view of history is only heightened by the habit of visiting foreigners to surround themselves with the capital’s political class, a strata of society that the Haitians themselves have learned to despise to such a degree that many poor people I spoke to last month openly hoped for a U.S. occupation of the country (something I think would be a mistake).

Perhaps the palme d'or of recent ignorant commentary on Haiti may belong to Lawrence Harrison, director of the Cultural Change Institute at the Fletcher School of International Affairs at Tufts University and the former director of the USAID mission to Haiti from 1977 to 1979.

Writing in the Wall Street Journal, Harrison lays the blame for Haiti’s ills at the altar of the country’s indigenous religious construct of vodou, opining that “its followers believe that their destinies are controlled by hundreds of capricious spirits who must be propitiated through voodoo ceremonies...a species of the sorcery religions that Cameroonian development expert Daniel Etounga-Manguelle identifies as one of the principal obstacles to progress in Africa.”

Further, Harrison informs his readers, following the overthrow of the French in 1804, free Haitians “were left with a value system largely shaped by African culture” and quotes the economist Sir Arthur Lewis (“himself a descendent of African slaves”) as saying that former slaves “inherited the idea that work is only fit for slaves."

Let me say this plainly: Lawrence Harrison would collapse of exhaustion if he put in half a day’s work that I have seen peasant farmers and urban laborers put in during the course of a single day in Haiti. In Haiti, securing the most basic necessities of existence is a daily, titanic struggle that people like Harrison, Limbaugh,Weisbrot et al, secure behind their desks and probably never having had to put in a strenuous day’s work in their lives, will never understand as they hide behind their pompous theories.

Vodou and its value system, in the nearly 15 years I have been traveling to Haiti, are no more arcane or nonsensical than the cosmology of Christianity, Judaism, Islam or Hinduism. I have, in fact, seen vodou it act as an important spiritual succor for people in a place where death, premature and unnatural, is a blighted daily companion, and a sense of disconnect from one's heritage a real concern.

Several years ago, while chatting with a vodou priest known as Ti Papi in the crowded Bizoton quarter of Port-au-Prince, he told me the following:

When there's tires burning in the streets, when there's coup d'etat, when there's everything else, we are still doing our ceremonies, we are still beating our drums. Politicians come and go but voodoo is always here. If it wasn't for voodoo, we would already be occupied, either by the Americans or the Dominicans. Voodoo? It's been our sovereignty, over the years.

It’s a Haitian point of view, like the political point of view of Haiti’s people, that outsiders would do well to listen to.

Between the corrosive racism of some on the right and the tired rhetoric of some on the left - each based in no way in the reality on the ground in Haiti - we have an irresponsible, ahistorical approach to the country that in no way helps to ameliorate the situation of Haiti’s poor majority. When novice commentators try and shove Haiti into their own unsophisticated binary worldview, it damages, rather than advances, the cause of Haiti’s poor. By attempting to bestow a sheen of legitimacy on a disgraced leader or by maligning Haitians’ spiritual beliefs, these commentators, far from engaging in genuine inquiry and scholarship, are in fact showing the most grievous disrespect to Haiti and its people.

Haiti deserves better than this, and it is time that foreign commentators on the country actually spent some time there, away from their comfortable desks and apartments, speaking to actual Haitians in the back of sweltering camionettes, in crowded shantytowns and in hardscrabble peasant fields, far away from the echo-chamber of the intelligentsia in which so much of the right and the left often marinate.

The Haitians, the everyday Haitians who have struggled so long against such great odds to build a decent country and to provide for their families despite so many obstacles, deserve to have their voices heard without the filter of the prejudices of perhaps well-meaning but ignorant foreigners. We owe them at least that, I think. The Haitians have a lot more to teach us about their country than we can teach them.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Haiti/Patrimoine : Trois lakou sacrés du vodou réhabilités aux Gonaïves

Haiti/Patrimoine : Trois lakou sacrés du vodou réhabilités aux Gonaïves

vendredi 4 septembre 2009

(Read the original article here)

P-au-P, 3 sept. 09 [AlterPresse] --- Trois (3) des lakou sacrés du vodou en Haïti, Souvnans, Badjo et Soukri, situés aux Gonaïves (Artibonite, Nord) seront l’objet de travaux de réhabilitation à partir du premier weekend de septembre 2009, a annoncé le ministre de la culture et de la communication, Olsen Jean Julien, s’exprimant, ce jeudi 3 septembre en compagnie du secrétaire d’Etat à la production animale, Michel Chancy, dans une conférence de presse à laquelle a assisté l’agence en ligne AlterPresse.

La cérémonie d’inauguration des travaux de réhabilitation de ces trois lakou sacrés du vodou aura lieu ce samedi 5 septembre 2009 aux Gonaïves (à 171 kilomètres au nord de la capitale), sous les auspices du bureau de la Première ministre Michèle Duvivier Pierre-Louis, du ministère de la culture et de la communication (Mcc) et des serviteuses et serviteurs du lakou Badjo.

Les lakou de Soukri, Souvnans et Badjo sont parmi les lieux de patrimoine, historiques et culturels, les plus anciens du pays. Tous les ans, des Haïtiennes et Haïtiens viennent de partout pour célébrer les rituels vodous qui durent parfois plusieurs semaines.

« Les lakou sont de grands lieux de pèlerinage, beaucoup d’Haïtiens y vont. Ce sont des foyers immenses de construction, de production et de transmission de sens », signale Olsen Jean Julien.

Des espaces polyvalents, des services culturels et socio-économiques ont été implantés dans ces lakou dans l’idée de leur permettre de mieux jouer leur rôle de transmission des valeurs traditionnelles, de lieu de culte populaire mais aussi de production économique, précise le ministre.

A Soukri, le portail Loaka, le bâtiment Kay Mèt et le péristyle (temple du vodou) ont été reconstruits. La douche, les toilettes, le portail Parenn Legba et le péristyle ont été réhabilités au lakou Souvnans, tandis qu’à Badjo les interventions effectuées concernent l’entrée principale, les infrastructures d’urgence et la mare sacrée.

Activités de promotion de l’élevage en relation aux travaux dans les lakou

Ces travaux de réhabilitation auront également permis au ministère de l’agriculture, des ressources naturelles et du développement rural (Mandr) de réaliser des activités pour encourager la production nationale, selon Michel Chancy.

150 familles bénéficient d’un programme de distribution de bétail. Chaque bénéficiaire recevra deux femelles de cabris et un bouc d’une espèce améliorée.

Avec le concours du bureau d’ethnologie, de nouvelles variétés d’herbes ont été introduites. Les éleveurs ont pu suivre des séances de formation et des parcs pour animaux ont été construits.

Une unité de transformation de lait de 75 m2 a été construite à Soukri, avec des équipements de conservation de lait. Cette unité permettra aux éleveurs de fabriquer du fromage pour s’assurer ainsi un certain revenu.

Michel Chancy fait état de la construction d’une autre laiterie à Badjo, en faisant savoir que « ce sont les habitants qui ont défini les règles du jeu, en spécifiant aux représentants de l’Etat ce qu’ils voulaient ».

Une enveloppe de 10 millions de gourdes (Us $ 1.00 = 41.75 gourdes aujourd’hui) a été allouée à ces travaux de réhabilitation, en plus d’un autre cachet de 3 millions de gourdes, souligne le ministre de la culture.

Par ailleurs, 120 personnes attachées à ces trois lakou ont participé, pendant dix jours, à un atelier de peinture expérimental assuré par des professeurs de l’école nationale des arts (Enarts). Une exposition d’une sélection des œuvres réalisées est prévue pour l’inauguration ce samedi 5 septembre.

Les travaux de réhabilitation de ces lakou s’inscrivent dans le cadre du programme d’urgence du gouvernement, lancé après le passage des cyclones de 2008.

«Pendant les cyclones, beaucoup de gens se sont refugiés dans ces lakou, utilisés comme des abris provisoires », rappelle le ministre de la culture.

Le Mcc a, de son côté, initié un programme de conservation et de mise en valeur du patrimoine.